Insider’s Guide to Panerai Straps
As I was reviewing Watchuwant’s current inventory of Panerai watches, I was awestruck at the plethora of Panerai straps and buckles available today. Searching through our inventory of Panerai watches, I was confused and bewildered trying to keep straight which straps went on which watches and with which buckles.
It used be so simple; a 44mm Luminor case fit a 24mm lug width strap and a 40mm Luminor case fit a 22mm lug width strap. Along those same lines, if the watch was automatic, it was classified as a Contemporaire,” or “contemporary,” style and came on a folding deployment buckle. If the watch was manual winding, it was classified as “Historici,” or historic, and was sold on a “thumbnail-style” tang buckle. With an eye towards embracing the original DNA of the vintage Panerai company and making what was old new again, around 2010, Panerai retired the thumbnail-style tang or ardillon buckle and outfitted all of their manual winding historic models with the revered oversized “bottle-opener” pre-Vendome (“pre-V”) style buckles. On a few historic special edition 47mm Radiomirs, specifically the PAM 232 and 249, Panerai even re-introduced the sewn in pre-V buckle strap reminiscent of the original pre-V Panerai “kodiac” straps.
Welcome to 2016, where all of the rules have changed. With Panerai’s capabilities expanding to create proprietary movements, the lines have been blurred once again. Now pretty much all in-house movement Panerai watches are outfitted with the oversized pre-V bottle opener-style tang buckle. But wait, it seems the more things change, the more they do stay the same. Panerai has just released an ultra thin line of watches called the “Due” and with these watches, Panerai has reverted back to the original thumbnail style tang buckles, regardless of whether the watches are manual winding or automatic. Clearly, things have changed and become a bit more murky and confusing in the Panerai strap universe. Hopefully the guides below will help you choose the appropriate strap for your Panerai.
With Panerai widening the breadth of its watch case sizes, designs and models, there have been some changes along with a number of additional strap materials, combinations, colors and styles. The tables below identify the various sizes, dimensions, lug and buckle widths of the various Panerai straps along with a guide as to which straps go with each model, categorized by case size and model. From one Paneristo to another, I wish you happy hunting in the search for your next strap to outfit your Panerai.